And there are hundreds of them, in convoluted mazes: cave-like spaces in which men hammer, weld, sculpt wood, sew and, of course, cajole and seduce passers-by. For the first day or so, getting lost in the maze, taking in shelves stacked with intricately inlaid cedar boxes, glimmering silk babouche slippers, bottles of spices, tribal jewellery, and carefully wrought iron lamps, is a treat. But then confusion sets in. How to tell real from fake? Just where does one find the best?
For the past decade or so, most serious shoppers have relied on a band of fashion-conscious expats – Laetitia Trouillet, Elena Masera, Maryam Montague – to guide them through the souks and source delectable, not-too-ethnic wares. Trouillet is the best-known, the woman called on to take visitors such as Gwyneth Paltrow and Sarah Jessica Parker round the most elegant stores, who knows where to get soft-as-butter shoes in the style of Tod's or Prada (Atika); cool cowboy boots patched with Berber weaving (Michèle Baconnier); understated modern kaftans in rough white and cream silks (Moor); and seriously hip bags (Trouillet's own boutique).
But since the official local guides recently took exception to foreigners muscling in on their well-paid patch, these expat shopping experts have been legally restricted to running just their own shops or riads and dispensing advice on a non-official basis. Which is why the publication of a new book by American writer Susan Simon, Shopping Marrakech, is a godsend to visitors wanting advice from non-partisan sources rather than the official guides, many of whom are paid by touristy shops to bring in custom.
The little book is split into seven walks, each listing a range of shops to stop off at, a recommended lunch stop, and clear directions. It's utterly brilliant. For those who have just one day, I would recommend Walk No 3, into the heart of the old souk. For fashionistas who want high-class fashion, No 7 is best.
Having spent four days walking the souks in search of the city's gems, taking in the advice of guides, fashion editors, local blogs and clued-up residents – as well as frequently looking at the book – I now have an idea of the very best shops [see top right]. Most will ship goods, but getting something sent home often doubles the price.
A smarter idea is simply to take a large empty suitcase.