The Historic City of Meknes was the capital city for the Alaouite dynasty (17th century). Its Sultan Moulay Ismaïl redesigned the city in
Hispano-Moorish style.
Meknes is enclosed by 25 km long walls that are pierced by monumental gates like the Bab Mansour. Over 80 monuments are enlisted, including mosques, medresas, hammams and fondouks.
I visited Meknes on the morning of the 1st of January, not the best choice of times. The Place el-Hedim, Meknes’s attempt at having their own Djemaa el-Fna, looked desolate (especially under the grey clouds that didn’t want to give way to the sun). The medina was deserted, most of the shops closed. The same unfortunately was true for the Dar Jamaï Museum, advertised by my Lonely Planet guide as “one of Morocco’s best museums”.
One might also wonder why this medina has been placed on the List, next to the more mindblowing ones in Marrakech and Fez. You’ll get a medina-overdose anyway in Morocco.
As I clearly didn’t enjoy my time here in Meknes, I decided to skip the royal stables (probably closed too). I travelled on to Volubilis and Moulay Idriss on the same day, both well worth the effort so that I had a fine day after all.
Meknes was an imperial city created by Sultan Moulay Ismael which was never really completed and was then abandoned and partially destroyed by his son in favour of Marrakech. It was built in mid 17th century and has been called (inappropriately in my view) the “Versailles of Morocco” because it was approximately contemporaneous with Louis XIV and his own constructions (Moulay Ismail saw himself as superior to the French monarch and apparently suggested that Louis XIV should convert to Islam and offered to take 1 of his daughters as a wife!). Some of the palace buildings were restored and are used by the current Sultan but much remains in ruins. The walls stretch for miles and the main gate “Bab el Mansour” (photo) whose columns were taken from Volubilis is one of the architectural “highlights” – which perhaps gives you a measure of the “value scale” of what you will see. Inside the walls, the streets and souks are pleasant enough but don’t have the same sense of size and mystery as at Fez and Marrakech – one doesn’t feel “in danger” of losing oneself here!